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10 Tips for Winterizing your boat

Well unfortunately it is that time of year, again. The trees are just about bare and the water is getting well below the desired swimming temperature. Now it is time to winterize your boat.

Here are some basic tips to remember when you are putting your vessel away for the winter:

  1. Start by doing a basic cleaning out, call it Spring Cleaning in advance. Clean out the food lockers, refrigerator, and icebox. This will help to prevent any critters from crawling around possibly cause damage to the interior of your boat. Remember to keep the door’s open to help increase the airflow. This is also a good time to get rid of anything that you may not need; possibly consign usable items to Bacon’s.
  2. Take down your sails. This is more of an optional step depending on how you like the exterior of your boat to look year-round, however by removing your Headsail and Mainsail/Cover, you reduce the risk of damage from either freezing or heavy winds that may cause deterioration to your fabric. This is a good time to take them in for cleaning and/or repairs. Keep in mind that Bacon Sails offer’s both Sail Cleaning and evaluation/repairs for sails.
  3. Exterior electronics. This is also an optional step depending on how easy it is to remove the display units. However, if it is not difficult to do so, go ahead and store the GPS and electronic gauges/meters inside to prevent them from any damage that they could incur from harsh freezes.
  4. Drain the fresh water. While you are draining your fresh water tanks, go ahead and inspect them for any signs of weak spots/leaks. If you have an accessible hatch for the tanks, go ahead and clean them out, this will clear up any build up of residue that may of been residing in the tanks. Drain everything, this includes your hot water heater tank, sink, pumps, and anything else that flows from fresh water. Open the Sea cocks to be able to drain outside(Only if on the Hard).
  5. Add your anti-freeze, preferably pink 50-50 anti-freeze and water. Many forget to include bilge pumps; suck the pump until it is dry then suck the 50-50 mixture through it until it comes out the pink color. Once every possible water circulated line has been flushed with the 50-50 mixture, go ahead and do a run through from bow to stern to check for any possible sea cocks or drains that you may have forgotten.
  6. Flush your Raw water cooling system and replace with the 50-50 mixture.
  7. Add stabilizer to your fuel tanks and replace all fuel filters(Fuel filters may be replaced at this time or right before use of new season). Take the time to run the motor for about 10-15 minutes so the stabilizer mixes in with the fuel lines and injectors.
  8. To help prevent any mold/mildew build up, try Starbrite’s No Damp Moisture Absorber and Dehumidifier pouches. For a clean smelling cabin, use Tea Tree Gel cups in various places, such as one in the V-berth and one in the Salon.
  9. Spray down everything outside the boat with fresh water to remove any salt coated items. Be sure to spray down running rigging, lifelines, steering, winches and any metal surface to help prevent corrosion build up over the winter break.
  10. A good cover. If you are using a boat cover made up of Sunbrella, look over for any weak spots/holes that may cause leaks onto the boat. At the same time, spray a layer of 303 Fabric Guard to build up a water repelling layer over the Sunbrella. If you are shrink wrapping, be sure to have an easy access way so you don’t have to make any cuts into the wrapping if you need to get into the boat. Both Sunbrella and Shrink wrapped covers should be well ventilated, Solar Vents are a good way to help vent.

If you have any questions about Winterizing your boat, feel free to ask the folks over at Bacon Sails. You can contact them by email:, phone:410-263-4880, or by person at 116 Legion Ave, Annapolis MD.


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More On Sail Care…

In the last blog about taking care of your sails at the end of the season, I have pointed out some of the areas on sails that are particularly vulnerable to deterioration or damage. This time I would like to share with you a few pictures showing these problem areas:

Damaged webbing
severely deteriorated webbing

This first picture shows a severely deteriorated webbing loop at the head of this furling genoa.  This web is really ready to fail at any moment, and most likely it will happen in the worst possible time…

Hopefully webbing loops on your sails are nowhere near this level of deterioration, but keep an eye for drying fibers, that feel chalky and dry. Especially if you start to see individual fibers starting to separate, as in this picture, it’s time to replace such webbing, else inevitably this happens:

broken webbing
broken webbing

Often on sails with a second-hand sun cover installation, corners end up being left uncovered as in this example:

torn dacron at clew corner
damaged dacron at clew corner

If you zoom closer and look at the Dacron® surrounding this pressed ring you will see that top layer has ripped. As you might have guessed, sun exposure has weakened the fabric.  At least this sail has a webbing reinforcing the corner, but it itself is slowly weakening. Ideally you would want all Dacron and webbing surface to be covered with Sunbrella for best and longest lasting protection. If your sail has any areas exposed as in this picture, keep an eye on these.

In the last blog I have also mentioned about luff tape on furling sails. Here is the example of what I was writing about:

Head of roller furling genoa
head of roller furling genoa

This particular genoa has Sunbrella sun covers installed in a typical fashion. Again, ideally you would want to have the web loop also wrapped in Sunbrella for protection, but it would be nice to have a strip of Sunbrella to extend over the portion of luff tape. Take a look at a close up of the top of this luff tape:

damaged luff tape
damaged luff tape

About 2 inches of this tape has ripped and this will continue if left unattended.  It is much easier (and less expensive) to fix if you don’t let it go this far on your sail. It may be worth your while to occasionally drop your head sail and inspect what is going on at the head…

If you have any questions or comments on the subject, feel free to leave me a comment below.

Happy Sailing!


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End of season sail care

damaged sail

So, it’s November. For many sailors in the Northeast and other parts of the country (and the world) the sailing season is winding down. Your sails represent a significant investment in your sailing enjoyment, so naturally taking good care is important. Here are some dos and don’ts when it comes to sail care.

End of season sail care do’s and don’ts

Don’t store your sails when they are wet and or dirty. Wet sails stashed away invite mold growth. That may not damage your sail in terms of its usability, but it may cause unhealthy conditions, spread to other items (sails) and leave permanent stains. That may be especially troublesome with laminate sails, as mold tends to get trapped between laminate layers, which for all practical purposes will be permanent.  Please note that we do not accept for consignment sails that have even a trace of active mold.  If you are sailing in salty or brackish waters then storing wet sails causes another problem – salt deposit. As moisture evaporates, it will leave salt deposits which will over time cause damage to the sail fabric. The same goes for sand and any other particles.

Most of the time all your sail would need is a good hose down with fresh water, followed by thorough drying in a fresh air and some sunshine. It should go without saying but we will say it anyway: don’t put the sail in a dryer, even if it will fit!

If water alone won’t do, you may add some soap, just make sure that you rinse it thoroughly afterwards. You can use your bathtub for that purpose, large barrel or something else big enough to soak your sail completely.  What kind of soap can you use? Basically anything that is not too aggressive. Dawn® dish detergent might be one simple option. If you’re not sure, then stop by the Bacon’s – we sell a powdered sail detergent formulated specifically for home sail cleaning, all you need is large enough container and some elbow grease…

Of course if you don’t feel like doing it yourself bring or ship it to us and we will professionally clean your sails for you.

Besides making sure that your sails are clean and dry, you should carefully inspect your sails for any needed repairs.  Taking care of small problems can really save you big bucks when small issues get neglected.

hand sewing
ready for some hand sewing

You should inspect all the attachment points: head, tack and clew corners – make sure that all corners look strong:

  1. Check webbing loops for visible degradation from sun exposure.
  2. Make sure that all stitching is healthy
  3. If there is a ring, make sure that metal is not deteriorated, and ring itself is not loose in the panel.
  4. Inspect fabric surface for excessive UV damage – that is especially important at the head of the sail. Especially on roller furling genoa’s , fabric near the head that is not protected by sun covers when furled, deteriorate quickly and panel may need reinforcement.
  5. Also on furling sails, check the luff tape at the head. It typically gets exposed to sun and quickly rots away. One way to deal with it is to add a protective Sunbrella® strip that provides added protection from sun exposure.
  6. If your sails have leech and/or foot lines, inspect a visible section of the cord for tears and excessive wear. The cord attachment is often covered with a pocket that has a tendency to wear out. If Velcro is used for closure, inspect it as Velcro is also very vulnerable to sun exposure.
  7. On furling headsails, the stitching on sun covers is always the weakest part as is the case with any marine canvas project. Usually within a few seasons sun covers need to be restitched because stitching on any areas constantly exposed to sun eventually sunrot and weaken. That makes a great case for taking the trouble to remove your sails from the boat after the season.
  8. Sun covers made from Sunbrella® can last many seasons in moderate climates, but they are, by no means, indestructible. Keep a good eye on your covers especially if they’re more than 3 seasons old. Immediately repair any tears and, as already mentioned, have them restitched as needed. Replacing sun covers is an expensive proposition. In fact, depending on the size and condition of the sail, it might be a more prudent expenditure of money to just by a brand new sail. One area of the sun covers on headsails that you should keep your eye on is the area of the leech that may come in contact with spreaders. We have seen many sun covers completely ripped, because small snags in those areas went ignored and unattended. If you notice that your covers get a serious beating there, a good solution is to install protective/ sacrificial patches in that area called spreader reinforcers.
  9. Whether covered with a sun cover or not, all sails experience wear along the leach. Whether because of leach flutter, flogging or just sun exposure, pay particular attention to these areas of your sails. Like many illnesses, when it is discovered early it is more often easier to cure. If, on the other hand, you ignore it, it may bring your sail to an early demise more often than any other type of damage.
  10. On mainsails, batten pockets are the culprits of high wear. Inspect them often and definitely at the end of your sailing season. Pay close attention to both batten pocket ends, outboard and inboard, for excessive wear and deterioration of any component of the pocket construction. Again worth repeating – what starts as a minor repair can easily turn into a big $$$ if you ignore it. Not to mention the ever annoying “lost” battens.
  11. Mast or luff hardware is another area of mainsails that should command regular attention. Regardless of the type of hardware in place, these are areas of high stress and high load for a sail, attachment point and hardware itself. If you have nylon slides or slugs, check for broken or failing pieces. These are quite inexpensive and, in most instances, you can easily replace them yourself.
  12. You should also thoroughly inspect the entire sail surface area for any damage. Most of the time small scuffs and minor rips may simply need a self-adhesive Dacron patch, while larger areas may require sewn repairs. If you are unsure, seek advice from more experienced sailors, or bring your sails to us for a full inspection.

Typically at this time of a year we get really busy with cleaning, inspecting and repairing our customer’s sails as well as making modifications to sails that just don’t fit right. From many years of experience, we can’t emphasize enough that taking good care of your sails is crucial to extending their lives. So, clean them, inspect and, if necessary, fix any damage before it becomes a much bigger problem later. If you don’t feel like doing it yourself or you prefer to have it done professionally just bring your sails to us. And yes – we carry various repair tools and materials in our store to help you maintain the integrity of your sails.



If you have any comments or question regarding this post, please comment below. We would  love to hear from you!

damaged sail
damaged sail